The Hardest Part: Wrapping the Ford Transit Blobs Like a Pro

Hey, welcome back to the blog! Today, we're diving into what many van builders consider the most challenging part of the interior finish: wrapping the foam "blobs" in the Ford Transit.

These irregularly shaped styrofoam pieces (designed for crash protection) are notoriously difficult to cover smoothly, but a meticulous approach and a willingness to try twice will get you a professional, wrinkle-free finish.

Let's jump right in!


Step 1: Prep and Trim the Blobs

Before applying any fabric, we need to prep the area and trim the blob to accommodate your wall kit.

  1. Trim the Blob: Your wall kit is designed to sit flush with a specific section of the blob. You need to trim the excess foam that sticks out.

    • Safety First: Slide a small piece of aluminum or cardboard behind the foam to shield the factory wiring harness before you cut.

    • Cut: Carefully use a utility knife to cut the designated section of the blob so it's flush with where your wall kit will land.

  2. Degrease: Wipe down the exposed metal and the foam with isopropyl alcohol on a clean rag. Good adhesion starts with a clean surface!

Step 2: Open Up and Mask the Area

To prevent overspray and ensure you can tuck your fabric, you need to open up the surrounding plastic and ceiling panels.

  1. Open the B-Pillar: Use a panel popper tool to pull the B-pillar panel out just one click. There is a small copper clip behind it; you do not need to pull the panel all the way off. This gives you room to tuck the fabric.

  2. Pull the Headliner: Firmly grasp the headliner and pull straight down to release a few of the retaining pins. You want to bring it down enough to mask around it.

  3. Mask: Mask all the surrounding plastic, metal, and headliner edges to protect them from adhesive overspray.

Step 3: Adhesive Application

Choosing the right adhesive is crucial—you don't want to dissolve the styrofoam!

  • The Right Glue: Use 3M Formula 74, which is a foam and fabric-specific adhesive that will not dissolve styrofoam.

  • Test and Shield: Before aiming at the van, test your can to ensure you have a clean, consistent stream. Use a spray shield (or plastic sheeting) to protect the cabin from overspray.

  • Spray Pattern: When spraying the blob, start by coating the field (flat) areas first, then hit the detail edges.

Step 4: Cut and Apply the Fabric

We use a durable tweed fabric for a professional, finished look.

  1. Cut the Fabric: Pull 3 feet of fabric off the roll and cut it in half, giving you a 36-inch by 30-inch section for each blob.

  2. Applying the Fabric:

    • Use the raw seam side of the fabric towards the back of the van (where it won't be seen).

    • Hang the fabric over the blob and lightly set it into place, making sure your initial placement is correct.

    • Start smoothing the fabric onto the high points (like the front corner and main radius) first.

    • Work Smoothly: Apply light pressure and smooth outward from the high points.

Step 5: Master the Curves and Wrinkles

This is where the magic happens—and where most people get tripped up.

  • Complex Corners: To wrap around tight radii, you must add tension to the fabric. Pull the tweed away from the corner while pushing it into the curve.

  • Eliminating Wrinkles: If a wrinkle appears, pull the fabric back immediately, add more tension, and then push it firmly back into place.

  • Seam Pressure: As you push the fabric onto the blob, apply firm pressure to the blob itself. The fabric will help lock the blob into place against the metal and give you a nice, clean finished edge.

Step 6: Trimming and Tucking

Once the fabric is smoothed into place, you can start trimming the edges.

  1. Rough Trim: Leave yourself plenty of extra material—you can always cut more off, but you can't add it back on. Give yourself about 3 inches along the long edges.

  2. Relief Cuts: In tight, complex curves, give yourself small relief cuts (just like wrapping a window sill) to allow the fabric to fold. Pro Tip: On outside corners, leave at least 1/2-inch of fabric safe space so you don't expose your relief cut.

  3. Tucking: Remove the masking tape and use a panel popper tool to carefully tuck the fabric behind the pulled-down headliner and B-pillar.

  4. The B-Pillar Challenge: This is the trickiest spot. Do careful trimming, leaving about 3/4-inch of excess fabric. Use the panel popper to pull the fabric tight from the front edge and push it into the tight crevice behind the B-pillar.

The Pro Secret: Peel It Off and Do It Again!

Here is the secret that separates an amateur install from a professional one: Peel the fabric off and wrap it a second time.

I know, it sounds crazy, but the first wrap is your practice. The second time:

  • You will know exactly where the tricky corners are.

  • You will know exactly how much tension to apply.

  • The final result will be so much tighter and cleaner.

Give the foam a light spray of adhesive to reactivate the surface, grab a fresh piece of fabric, and run through the process again at speed.

Step 7: Clean Up

Once your second wrap is complete and you’re satisfied with the finish, clean up any stray adhesive residue.

  • Cleaner: Use 3M Citrus-Based Adhesive Remover. This is a great investment for your van build because it won't dry out or "white out" your plastics.

  • Process: Spray a little bit onto the residue, let it activate for a minute, and then wipe it clean.

Your perfectly wrapped blobs are now complete! If you made it this far, thanks for reading! Make sure to check out our other posts as well!